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"Stones 



..Superlative.. 



Trouser 



System 



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STONE'S 

TROUSER SYSTEM 

BASED UPON 

A Scientific, Sure and Simple Method. 



BY 



CHAS. J. STONE, 

{i CHICAGO, ILL. 

Copyrighted, 1893, by Chas. J. STONE. 



otcojir^ 



4>»m0#&' 



Illustrated by Plates of Finely Engraved Diagrams, with full Instructions for 
Drafting the various Styles of Gentlemen's Trousers, Riding 
Breeches, Leggins and O'vergaiters. 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL, 

CHICAGO. 



K 






Chicago, 189 



(UftiA (^erfifiexS, that Mr. 

of , has paid $ for 

one copy of "Stone's Superlative Trouser System" the same to be 
simply for his OWN PERSONAL USE and is NOT TRANSFERABLE in any 

shape or manner. 



No.. 




Author 



Index 



Apollo Belvedere ------ Page 8 

How to draft the forepart - " 10 

How to draft forepart and backpart - - - - "12 

Trousers without a V in backpart - "14 

Spring Bottom Pants - - - - - "16 

Peg Top viz. Spring Bottoms. - "18 

Trousers for the Corpulent, "the forepart" - - - "20 

Trousers for the Corpulent, forepart and backpart - - "22 

Trousers for Bow-legs - - - - - - "24 

Large Hips and Small Waists - "26 

Knee and Riding Breeches - "28 

Leggins and Gaiters ------ "30 

Broadfalls and Splitfalls ------- "32 

How to make Trousers _____ "34 

Facts about our Cutting School - - - - - "35 

Terms for Instructions _____ "36 

Price List of Stone's Reliable Block Patterns - - - "37 

Price List of Works on Cutting - "38 

Proportion of the Human Form ----- "39 

The Chas. J. Stone Co.'s Cutting School - "40 




APOLLO BELVEDERE. 



^ 



Preface 



THE very flattering manner in which my previous works on Trouser Cutting were re- 
ceived has induced me to prepare this system. The principles here laid down are 
the result of years of practical experience and with the most satisfactory results. 
The Diagrams illustrating the principles set forth have been drawn by myself and engraved 
under my personal supervision with the utmost care and are calculated to demonstrate 
accurate instructions, made so plain that anyone who will give this system a careful study 
will find the entire work one of the most reliable on the subject that has ever been offered 
to the Trade. While every page of this book is the result of my own reflection and the 
experience of many years at the cutting board, it is also proper to state that I have consulted 
with many of our best cutters, both in this country and Europe, in order that the present 
work might embrace the modern and most approved method on Trouser Cutting. 

In conclusion, let all those who intend to study and practice these new principles lay 
aside all prejudice and follow out the instructions as herein given, and in so doing, you will 
find that complete success will follow and you will become a hearty indorser of this valuable 

work. , _ r . 

Very truly, 

THE AUTHOR. 



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(34) 



How to m<al(e Trousers. 



TROUSERS cut by this method will go together even; they are cut so as to distribute the goods 
equally on both sides of the centre line, and whatever stretching or shrinking needed for 
shape must be done equally on both sides of the centre line. It does not require an extra 
fine sewer in order to be a good pantaloon maker, but he should have some artistic skill in shaping 
the legs according to the shape of customer. The notches should go together even, the backpart 
should NOT BE stretched on the inside from the knee up to the crotch, as this will shorten the back 
and produce wrinkles on the forepart when customer sits down. In joining the pants up stretch the 
backseam about half of an inch in the fork so as to have them easy in the stride. 

A strip of silicia cut on the bias and folded double should always be put under the turn up 
at the bottom, extending three-quarters of an inch above the turn up. 

Sew turn up on to silicia without catching hold of the outside goods and sew top of 
silicia on to pants. 

This will make the pants legs smooth at bottoms. A little soap should be put in under the 
turnup. Never use glue or rubber tissue in fine work as it will spoil the turnup, and the trousers 
will wear out in a very short time. 

Care should be taken that the hang lining is put in easy. The lining in the inside fly must 
be put in on the bias. In putting in top pockets care should be taken that the facing is cut exactly 
like the forepart or the pockets will gap and appear to be twisted. 



(35) 



Facts about Our Cutting* School. 



r~\ EING A CUSTOM CUTTER FOR OVER FORTY SEASONS, and having been identified 
(\ | with fine Tailoring all my life, and gradually working my way up from a coat maker (with the 
_^ late and well-known merchant tailor, Mr. Edward Ely, of Chicago,) to a position of custom 
cutter, and for over twenty years I have constantly been in daily practice at the cutting board, during 
which time I have come in contact with and cut clothes for all kinds of people, and cut all kinds of 
clothes worn by men and women, giving me a thorough study of all the different shapes of the human 
form. Backed up with daily and constant practice for more than forty seasons as a cutter, and ten 
seasons as a journeyman tailor, I feel convinced that you will give the following your respectful 
consideration, and trust also that the enterprise embodied in this book will deserve your appreciation 
and support. 

I have been teaching garment cutting for the past sixteen years, and at the same time held 
position as cutter until August ist, 1892, when I gave up one of the best paying cutting positions in 
the trade to devote all my time to teaching cutting. 

The School is under my personal supervision, assisted by efficient teachers, giving each student 
individual attention in every detail. 

Having been so long and favorably known in merchant tailoring, I have a large following of old 
customers that comes to my school for their clothes; therefore, we have opened a tailoring department 
and workshop in connection with our school, where, all our students get a chance to see clothes cut, 
made and tried on, thus giving the student practical instruction in everything appertaining to the 
trade; this we consider necessary in order to give thorough instructions, and every student will cut 
the cloth and see his own garments made up before he gradutes and gets his diploma. I know of no 
cutting school in America, outside of my own, that gives practical instructions to their students; 
neither do I know of any other teacher of cutting that has successfully held a cutter's position for 
twenty years. It certainly requires a long practice at the cutting board before any one can 
successfully give instructions to others, and I leave it to the Trade to investigate and judge for 
themselves what school of cutting has got the most experienced teachers. 




President and Principal of the Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, 

Chicago, III. 



(36) 



Terms for Instruction. 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE. 

For a complete course of Instruction in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) . .$100.00 

Coat System, alone 50.00 

Trouser System, alone 25 .00 

Vest System, alone 25 .00 

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50.00 

Grading 50.00 

Boys' and Children 100.00 

Ladies' Cutting. 

For a complete course of Ladies' Garments $100.00 

Ladies' Over Garments 50.00 

For Grading all Ladies' Garments 50.00 

Practical Cutters 

Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers. . . .$ 50.00 

Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 . 00 

" " Trouser System, alone ■. 15 .00 

" Vest System, alone 15.00 

Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 .00 

Practical Cutters. 

For special and private instruction in measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, 
Vests, Trousers, or Grading, Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from 
one hour to one day, from $5 .00 to 25 .00 

=THIS IS A SPECIAL FEATURE. 

Address, CHAS. J. STONE, Private Office, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



(37) 



Stone's Reliable Block Patterns. 

PRICES OF PATTERNS IN SETS. 



Men's Overcoat's, from 33 to 42 breast measure $ 1 2 . 00 

" Undercoats, 33 to 42 " 10.00 

Trousers, 29 to 42 waist " 1 o . 00 

Vests, 33 to 42 breast 6.00 

Ladies' Jackets, 32 to 42 bust 10.00 

" Ulsters, Dolmans, etc., 32 to 42 bust measure 12 .00 

Boys' Overcoats, from 10 to 18 years 8.00 

Undercoats, 10 to 18 " 6.00 

" Trousers, 10 to 18 " 6.00 

" Vests, 10 to 18 " 5.00 

A discount of 15 per cent, will be allowed on large orders. 

Prices of Single Patterns, whethe r r SUufSEcS." 1 ™ 1 

Undercoats any style $ 1 .00 

Trousers and Vests, each 75 

Overcoats, any style or size 1.50 

Cape, or other Fancy Overcoats 2 .00 

For Special Patterns the ^.°;£*.?."' urM 

The Breast Measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and unless it is 
•especially stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used. 

The measures necessary for all Undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve, 
breast, waist, hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the waist 
seam is located). This measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Get height of customer, 
and, if possible, a concise description of the figure for whom is intended. 

For Vests and Trousers the usual measures. The form of customer should be briefly described. 

All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by a Cash Remittance of at least 50 per 
cent, of the amount ordered, to receive attention. 

Address all orders to THE CHAS. J. STONE CO., 

194 & 196 La Salle St., CHICAGO. 



(38) 



Works on (utting 



FOR SALE AT OUR OFFICE 






e*9 




Stone's New Superlative System of 

Designing and Cutting 

Gentlemen's Garments 

THE AUTHOR of this System has spent twenty years at the cutting board; he has taken aiv 
active part in advancing the custom cutter, and organized cutters' societies. He has always 
been a leader in practical work, always ready to exchange ideas with leading men in our 
profession, and after all these twenty years of hard study, he has now the satisfaction of having 
hundreds of pupils using his methods of cutting, and we refer you to our students who have carried 
off medals and prizes at conventions held by the National Custom Cutters' Association of America. 

STONE'S SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM (new) $5.00 

STONE'S SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM (new) '. 5.00 

STONE'S PARAMOUNT COAT, VEST AND TROUSER SYSTEM 5.00 

The above works on Cutting is what we teach in our school, and will be sent prepaid by mail on 
receipt of price. 

Send Chicago Exchange or Postofrice Order and the book will be sent by mail. No book will be 
sent C. O. D. 

Correspondence must, in all cases, be addressed to the house. Address all orders to 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO., 
194 & 196 La Salle St., CHICAGO. 

All communications will receive prompt attention. 



(39) 



Proportions of the Human Form. 



WK CONSIDER it a necessity for every Cutter to fully understand the proportions of the body 
that he is required to drape, and it is impossible for any cutter to know what disproportion 
is if he has no knowledge of the proportions. Therefore our System has been so arranged 
that it has for its fundamental principle the Proportions of the Human Form. 

Commencing with the production of a properly balanced and correctly fitting garment for 
the normal or average shaped man, and by the use of the self-varying upper and lower shoulder 
measures, together with the front strap measure and waist suppression, the needed changes 
for the disproportionate forms are [obtained. A master knowledge of cutting is acquired by first 
-qualifying ourselves in the knowledge of producing a fit for the normal man, and in the next place 
to change correctly from the regular, to fit and conform to the various changes in the irregular form 
as we meet them in our every day practice. 

Not only are students required to thoroughly master every detail of measuring and drafting, but 
they are required also to study the Proportions of the Human Form before they receive their 
Diploma. 

NOTE. — German and Skandinavian spoken by our Instructors. 



UJ.DKHKT Ul- ^UNOKhbb 



II ill III I 
014 082 997 3 # 



(4°) 



The Chds. J. Stone Co 



(INCORPORATED) 



futting | School 



! ^ 6 La 5alle Street, 

hicago, III. 



<* 




President and General nanager. 



The Designing, Cutting and Making of Gentlemen's and Ladies' Garments of all kinds taught. 

Instructions given daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. 

Evening Classes when necessary. Tuition must be paid in advance in all cases. 



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$kamlmavi.$fee ^pvaaflfv talcs. 



